Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.
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