Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
